Japonesa in Makati's Poblacion district unveiled its "final form" as a two-story concept with one menu and signature drinks per floor. When it first opened last year, there were two different concepts — Japonesa (first floor, Japanese) and Peruana (second floor, Peruvian). But within months of opening, it was apparent to the management team that there was a need for more cohesion.
“The consistent feedback was 'I want to order from the second floor or ground floor and vice versa.' The cross-ordering was getting confusing, so what we decided to do was to take the best of both worlds and mash the menus together and now we’re just calling it one cohesive concept — which is Japonesa," said James Thomas, CEO of Notorious Concepts.
While the two floors enjoy one menu from the kitchen helmed by chef Paulina Tolentino, each floor was designed to have a specific vibe, as well as three signature cocktails.
“The second floor will be more high energy and the aesthetic is more Peruvian, and with our outdoor patio, it’s a little more conducive to drinking. Downstairs is a little more sit-down, and a chill vibe… We think that there should definitely be things to unlock and explore just by trying out a different level,” explained Thomas.
During the recent launch of the Japonesa complex, media and Japonesa guests were treated to a bar takeover by William Camcam (senior bartender) and Giselle Lee (junior apprentice) from Employees Only Singapore. According to Thomas, there are more takeovers and crossovers in the works not only in the bar side of things but as well as in the kitchen.
“We wanna introduce something new. We want to send chefs and bartenders abroad to either the States or other countries in Asia and vice versa. We want to showcase our talent there. I want to turn the tide, where people will get excited when we say that Filipino chefs and bartenders are going there," said Thomas.
This two-pronged approach, targeting improvement in both kitchen and the bar, stems from how the Poblacion scene has changed, with more food-driven concepts appearing and lasting since the eventual end of the pandemic.
“Now, I see a lot of people coming in with the ambition to make a mark in the food scene. I think (it’s) like Lan Kwai Fong in Hong Kong, Meatpacking District in New York, (and) Itaewon in Korea. We are seeing a shift in the culture here where it’s not just about drinking,” said Thomas.
What to order in the new Japonesa menu
For food, you can’t go wrong by starting with the Kani Wakame Salad – kani, seaweed, lettuce and tomatoes, bound together with a zippy sesame dressing. For the roll side of things, the La Japonesa roll is a bestseller for a reason with a mound of spicy tuna and a sliver of green chili atop slices of a crispy sushi roll.
For something that not only promotes sustainability but also is very tasty, try the Crispy Shrimp Atama, a serving of fried-to-a-crisp shrimp heads to be dipped in two sauces: a roasted leek-amarillo sauce and a gochu-dynamite sauce. Both pack different types of heat, but strangely doesn’t overwhelm the shrimp heads or the palate. Must-try and is so good with any type of cocktail.
Another thing you must order is the Beef Cheek Pequeno. Think of it like a crispy gooey mozzarella stick with beef cheek mince inside, to be dipped into tangy and spicy salsa verde sauce.
Speaking of more drinking food, the Beef Belly Kushiyaki has meat that falls off the stick so easily. Happy enough to eat this sprinkled with just togarashi-lemon salt, but if you like things more piquant (like me), dunk it into Japonesa’s chimichurri verde.
If you’re a big group and you’re there for a proper meal, the Whole Peruvian Style Roast Chicken may be an option. A 24-hour brined whole roasted chicken, grilled with their house-made spice rub and served with four sauces: salsa verde, chimichurri verde, limon crema, and mango limo. I much preferred the bird with the first three sauces (with the limon crema tasting like a lemony sour cream). That said, the mango limo was a table favorite to some – adding something sweet to cut savoriness.
For rice, we were served the Shrimp & Coconut Chaufa (rice, coconut cream, shrimp, egg, mixed veg) and the Chorizo Chaufa (homemade pork chorizo, egg, mixed veg). Much like how great fried rice are, these were a meal onto themselves, but I would not say no to eating Chorizo Chaufa with the beef belly any day.
What about the bar takeover?
There were four cocktails on offer from the hands of Camcam featuring Antidote gin from France. The Shooting Star was a nod to Japan with the use of umeshu with Antidote Pink Gin, cognac and dry vermouth. What Side was all about creamy and fresh flavors using Antidote dry gin with cucumber juice, lime, elderflower liqueur, clarified milk filtered with mint leaves, and prosecco.
Simply Oasis has been in the Employees Only Singapore’s menu for five years straight, and understandably so because it was a citrusy delight. For the Japonesa takeover, Camcam used Antidote Dry gin, basil, chamomile cordial, yuzu and lemon juice for the drink.
Last but not the least was the Tender Surrender. It was the most interesting in the bunch, with dry gin infused with green coffee beans, mixed in with fresh guava, clarified passion fruit, salted-agave nectar, with an edible flower floating in the glass. It was a floral, tropical cocktail with a side note of vegetal coffee. Never had that before in my life, which made it my favorite cocktail of the night.
Japonesa opens at 5 p.m. and closes at 2 a.m., at the corner of Don Pedro and Jacobo Streets in Poblacion, Makati.
Photos by Jeeves de Veyra