Izakayas are usually casual bars—many of them cramped, others have mood lighting—which Japanese folk sneak into as evening rolls in. It’s a perfect place to grab a selection of small plates among friends and co-workers, to enjoy between swigs of sake, highballs or beer. The newly opened Izakaya Geronimo at the Asian Century Tower in BGC, however, may confuse the usual izakaya fan: it’s so much bigger, it’s brighter, and save for the few traditional Japanese design touches, can pass for a largely Western bar.
Even its name is Native American. Geronimo was an Apache leader but over time the name has come to signify “bravery, courage and defiance.” It’s a battlecry. “We called it Geronimo because we invested in a big space, amazing sound system, big open kitchen, nice interiors. It just felt like a crazy project,” co-owner Lui Calavano tells ANCX, “like a leap of faith. When you jump off a plane, you say ‘Let’s go! Geronimo!’”
Clavano and his partners envisioned the place to be the farthest thing from a traditional Japanese restaurant (note the absence of lanterns, for example), which they first succeeded in achieving with their older baby, the very posh and expensive Wagyu Studio, also located in BGC. Unlike in Wagyu Studio, however, the food is more affordable here (“Anything is more affordable compared to Wagyu Studio,” Calavano jokes), the vibe more relaxed, and the music gets louder as night gets deeper and drinks fly out the bar faster than one can say “Arigato.”
But it’s more than just a party place. It’s quite a few things, really. Izakaya Geronimo has different compartments. It has a dedicated sake bar, where the sake-inclined can savor premium sake and also Japanese highballs. There’s a ramen-ya which crafts delectable ramen and comforting Japanese dishes from scratch. The sushi bar showcases expertly crafted sashimi and sushi rolls. For those looking for a more laid-back atmosphere, there’s a lounge area offering Japanese-inspired cocktails and a selection of shareable small plates.
It’s a fun place with a fun menu. There’s Popcorn Shrimp (shrimp fried in a panko batter then tossed in yuzu mayonnaise—creamy with a kick of spice), a Filet-O-Fish (essentially a fish fillet sandwich but the fish is an inch thick, tender, and punched up by the flavors of takana pickles and mentaiko roe), and a highly addictive ice fish chips called Crispy Shirauo. On our visit, we started with a simple and refreshing Yuzu Burrata, a rich salad with grapes and tomatoes; the aforementioned ice fish chips; and the Toro Uni Caviar Temaki—a hand-rolled piece of edible art, made with fatty tuna, Kaluga Queen caviar, and freshly flown-in uni from Japan. Last served was a tender lamb chop from New Zealand marinated in Gochujang.
Yoji Kitayama and Erik Idos are in charge of Izakaya Geronimo’s food. “We’d like our food to be fun and familiar, but with an elegant twist,” Kitayama says. Idos goes on to add, “With good music and a nice vibe, great food and drinks round up an overall memorable meal you can keep coming back to.”
Hanging out in this izakaya promises to be more than just a dining experience but a complete night out affair. “People who go out are prioritizing more than just food nowadays,” shares co-owner Carlo Alvarez. Meanwhile, Clavano says, “Within our social circle, our friends and colleagues are always on the lookout for something to do and places to go, which aren’t just a restaurant or a club. We imagine Geronimo to be a place you can go for dinner, pre- game, and end-game all in one.”